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"We became conscious of the heat. Although it was not yet nine
o'clock, the sun already beat down on us with an intensity that
could be felt through our clothes, and the air, which had been
cold only thirty minutes before, began to feel warm as the sun
beat back, reflected from the sand and gravelly shale of the
desert floor ... We stood soaking in the heat, and aware - as
I have not often been before or since - of heat's kinship to
light; a kinship understood not as a scientific diagram of wavelengths,
but as part of the same bodily experience of exposure to the
sun's rays."
"On First Setting Foot..." in SCENES IN AMERICAN DESERTA
by P. Reyner Banham
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You are looking at three views of the "Devil's Golf Course" area
in Death Valley National Park in California. To get close to this
bizarre area, you take the West Side Road off the main road that
goes from north to south through the park. This area - which is
approximately 200 feet below sea level - is about seven miles north
of Badwater, the lowest elevation in the U.S. (282 feet below sea
level - and of course, we all had our pictures taken standing next
to the sign that marks that point).
Banham's description of the heat is perfect. Though we were there
in March, considered the "cooler" season in Death Valley, I have
never felt a kind of penetrating heat as I did standing on this
valley floor. I simply can't imagine being there in the summer.
You are looking at three views of salt beds, described as follows
in one of my guides to the Park:
"As several ancient lakes evaporated, they left alternating
layers of salt and gravel deposits on the valley floor. These
layers are at least 1,000 feet deep and cover an area of 200 square
miles [though only a much smaller portion is visible today - GG].
Moisture rises to the surface from the shallow water table, carrying
salt in solution. On the surface the moisture evaporates, leaving
this salt to crystallize and be sculpted into sharp ridges and
spires by rain and wind. The hard crust expands and contracts
as the air temperature changes."
This "golf course" - so named because in some areas the salt and
dirt formations look a little like gnarly golf balls sitting on
a big fairway - is made up of a variety of shapes. As the changing
temperature (and tourists) cause the crust to break and tilt, the
salt crystal formations seen in the bottom photo become evident.
When I was looking through the viewfinder at them all I could think
of was textbook photos from elementary school, showing what snowflakes
look like under a microscope. The juxtaposition of the memory of
frozen snowflakes with the feeling of being in the heat on the Death
Valley floor was, to say the least, very strange...
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If you are interested in excellent landscape photography, take
a look at NATURE'S
AMERICA which captures images from around the US, or PLATEAU
LIGHT which contains images from the Arizona-Utah redrock canyon
country, or ARIZONA:
THE BEAUTY OF IT ALL. All are reasonably priced for photography
books of this type, and you'll find them endlessly enjoyable.
Also, there are many resources on the Web concerning various aspects
of landscape and environmental issues, and more. Among the more
interesting ones I can suggest are the Bureau of Land Management's
Visual Resource Management program,
the National Park Service, and
the Southern Utah
Wilderness Alliance.
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If You'd Like To Explore Some More...
There are several nature writers whose work I really enjoy reading,
including Edward Abbey, Barry Lopez, Joseph Wood Krutch, and Henry
David Thoreau and Everett Ruess. To see a list of their writings,
please visit the Natural Escape Writer's
page, and spend some time browsing through the titles.
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